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 Learn How to Write Fantasy Stories

How To Dress A Victorian Lady

When writing a Victorian era fantasy novel, even though it's fantasy, you'll want your world and characters to represent the period with accuracy. Even if you loosely develop a fantasy world based on the Victorian period, the information in this article will help dress characters in Victorian style apparel with enough detail to make it real in the reader's mind.

In this article we'll study the clothing of a Victorian Lady. Lady was the proper title of any woman whose husband ranked higher than baronet or knight, or who was the daughter of a nobleman not lower than an earl. A Lady's affluent lifestyle followed fashion. With that in mind, this article takes a look at how to dress a fantasy character based on historical dress.

Details down to underwear reflect a Victorian character's placement in time. In the first half of the nineteenth century undergarments served a utilitarian function. At that time, underwear lacked trimmings and decoration. But in the second half of the century, frills like lace and embroidery came into style. When dressing or undressing your character, keep details period specific.

 

Basic Victorian Undergarments

  • Chemise: a loose-fitting, white linen shirt-like undergarment designed to hang straight from the shoulders, fit loosely at the waist, sometimes more tightly at the hip and reached to the calf. You'll want to research neckline shapes and other small alterations for the timeframe of your story.
  • Drawers: an undergarment that covers the lower part of the body with legs reaching to the knees. Legs of this garment were sewn separately leaving the crotch open. Drawstring casings gathered at the back above a loose-fitting seat. This loose fit design prevented the open seam from separating. Again, depending on the exact time frame, you'll want to research whether the legs to the drawers for your character should be flared or wide, or gathered at the knee.
  • Corset: a close-fitting undergarment, stiffened with whalebone or similar material and often tightened by lacing. It fit tight around the trunk of the body. Women wore this garment to shape and support the body. It was worn over or under the petticoat.
  • Petticoat:(most often made in one piece with the bodice attached) Commonly made of flannel, this garment worked as a slip or underskirt worn for warmth and to hide the contour of a woman's legs. Often a decorative petticoat was full and trimmed with ruffles or lace. Three Petticoats were usually the minimum worn.
  • Stiffened petticoat, crinoline or bustle: Several petticoats were worn to support the bell shape skirt (before the cage crinoline in the 1850's). Early petticoats were starched and corded (cords ran through them to hold the hem out). Petticoats changed with fashion. As you design your character's wardrobe, consider the decade you want to target within the Victorian era. Do some research. Should your character be wearing a narrow paneled skirt or a wide bell skirt? Bustles came and went. Be sure to check if it is appropriate to add a bustle to your character's fashion sense.
  • Decorative petticoat: Depending on the year, decorative petticoats included things like flounces down the back, popular colors like scarlet or added decoration at the hem that showed below the hem of the dress.

    Stockings

    It's worth noting that during Victorian times, a Lady never referred to her legs. Petticoats and other undergarments were worn to hide the shape of a woman's legs. Does your Lady wear stockings gathered at the knee? What kind of garter holds her stockings in place? Are they made from rich silk fabrics with woven patterns or embroidered motifs? Or are they plain, ribbed, or fancy knit stockings?

  • Garters: An article of clothing used to hold up stockings-garters evolved over time so be sure to dress your fantasy character appropriately. The first garters tied around the leg, the next garters slipped onto the leg, and then elastic garters were invented. By the end of the century, a strap sewn to the bottom of the corset worked like a suspender to secure the stockings. What garter is appropriate for your character's period?

    Other Underwear

  • Crinolines: A skirt made of coarse stiff fabric like cotton or horsehair worn over the petticoat and then covered by a decorative petticoat
  • Bustles: A pad, cushion, or framework worn under the back of a woman's skirt to expand, support, and display the full cut and drape of a dress. It was worn over the petticoat and then covered by a decorative petticoat.
  • Corset covers: Protected the dress and corset from perspiration. This garment originated as the separate bodice for the petticoat. This waist length garment opened at the front.
    The Victorian Skirt or Dress

    Victorian Ladies were women of fashion. Over the basic dress, they wore a variety of matching draperies and overskirts which fell in graceful folds to embellish the dress. The basic dress sometimes came in two pieces, a matching bodice and skirt. Other dresses were sewn as a single garment with a fitted seam at the waist. Another popular fashion used consistently in writing fantasy is the one-piece princess dress with no waist seam. Dress style varied with fashion.

    Dress Accessories Ladies made a fashion statement by completing their look with matching accessories. Other items you'll want to add and research include collars, under-sleeves and cuffs.

    Matching capes and jackets added a bit of flare to the basic dress. Sometimes these matching capes and jackets were made to be worn indoors. Other outwear includes things like cloaks, shawls and mantles.

    Shoes and Boots Shoe fashion for indoors included flat slippers in the first half of the nineteenth century. For outdoors, Ladies wore short boots with flat heels. During the second half of the century footwear developed heels and boots became taller.

    Head Coverings

  • Caps: In the early Victorian period, caps were worn indoors by married and older Ladies.
  • Decorative hair-nets
  • Bonnets: Worn outdoors over indoor caps.
  • Hats: Stylish hats were worn without the indoor cap. Other Victorian Accessories To complete your character's wardrobe you'll add other Victorian Accessories. The following list will aid in your research to complete the look:

    Gloves, flat purses, walking stick parasols, pleated folding fans, jewelry and more.

    Now that you have the basics to get started, visit sites like the Victorian Fashion Timeline for more information.
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